Believe it or not, it's time for my last post of the semester. This week will officially kick off "Tequila Christmas" which means a break from school work and lots of blissful time celebrating. My favorite people will be making their way from Chicago to San Miguel to spend the holiday with me, and we'll all be flying back together on the 28th in time for me to enjoy a belated celebration with my family.
Plans for 2009 currently include serving as a teaching assistant for Latin American and Latino Studies 101 in Chicago, presenting a paper at the Latin American Studies Association annual meeting in Rio de Janeiro, returning for a brief stint to the Oaxaca Summer Institute, and playing in the archives in Oaxaca and Mexico City in the fall. So there will definitely be more to come...I'll send out an email once I start posting again.
Wishing you all a very happy holiday season!
15 December 2008
08 December 2008
Christmas Time Is Here (cue Charlie Brown chorus)
It's official - the holiday season has (finally) reached San Miguel. From the poinsettia tree growing outside my living room window to the sparkly decorations lining the streets, the town is looking very festive.
Last week was San Miguel's Annual International Jazz and Blues Festival. My neighbor and friend Sibyl rocked the house with her amazing voice and was definitely the talk of the festival.
She also performed two solo holiday concerts over the weekend, bringing the season into full swing. I snapped these photos as a favor to her, but thought it couldn't hurt to post them here as well.
Last week was San Miguel's Annual International Jazz and Blues Festival. My neighbor and friend Sibyl rocked the house with her amazing voice and was definitely the talk of the festival.
She also performed two solo holiday concerts over the weekend, bringing the season into full swing. I snapped these photos as a favor to her, but thought it couldn't hurt to post them here as well.
01 December 2008
Guanajuato
Last Monday Veronica and I took an overnight trip to the lovely city of Guanajuato, about 1.5 hours from San Miguel. Highlights include the Museo Iconográfico del Quijote, Ramsés Ruiz's Sigues Tú exhibit at the Galería Tomás Chávez Morado, and a night of bar hopping ending with Jameson and The Cure at Bar Fly.
Fantastic crepes - strawberries with natural cream and huilacoche (corn fungus) with savory sauce
Inside the Mercado Hidalgo
The Callejón del Beso (Alley of the Kiss) 
View of the outside of the Mercado with the city in the background
The Universidad de Guanajuato
26 November 2008
Morelia y Las Mariposas Monarcas
This week my wonderful friend Veronica came to visit me from Chicago. In addition to taking her to all my usual haunts in San Miguel, we took a mini-vacation to Morelia in the beautiful state of Michoacán. Morelia is a lovely city with fantastic architecture and delicious food! But the highlight of our trip was a hiking excursion just outside of Angangueo (three hours south) to see the famous monarch butterflies. Roughly 100 million monarchs migrate from Canada and the US to Mexico each winter, and one fifth of those choose this mountain to reside for its abundant water sources and trees. Words cannot begin to describe how amazing this experience was. Hopefully the photos will be a better introduction.
YAY! Someone to finally snap a picture of me! :)
The lovely casita where we stayed
Chocolate Moreliano and Churros
The Cathedral in Morelia
La Fuente de las Tarascas and the Aqueduct
First view of butterflies as we start our climb at El Rosario Sanctuary
Pine and cedar trees - their fragrance was amazing
More and more monarchs appearing
YAY! Someone to finally snap a picture of me! :)
The lovely casita where we stayed 
Chocolate Moreliano and Churros
The Cathedral in Morelia
La Fuente de las Tarascas and the Aqueduct
First view of butterflies as we start our climb at El Rosario Sanctuary
Pine and cedar trees - their fragrance was amazing
More and more monarchs appearing
The swirling of butterflies on the top of the mountain
Veronica warming in the sunshine at the bus station
17 November 2008
Oaxaca, and "¡Obamanos!"
I blissfully spent this past week playing in the archives in Oaxaca. It was wonderful to return to this most beloved city and to revisit all my old stomping grounds from the summer. My first morning there, I went to one of my favorite coffee shops and was delighted to see this on one of the walls:
Since previous posts showcase the architectural wonders of Oaxaca, I'm posting shots of my favorite (mostly new) artwork on display around town:
Surrounded by gorgeous mountains, it's impossible to have a bad view when walking through town.
On my last day, I sat in this lovely park (that now has free wi-fi), drank freshly squeezed orange juice, and watched this dance class.
Back in Mexico City (it's impossible to get between San Miguel and Oaxaca without a stopover in the DF), I enjoyed this hazy view from my hotel room.
This is my other favorite coffee shop, and where most of my writing took place this trip:
As an added bonus, the city was hosting a book fair this week, so stalls and stalls of wonderful books to look through. They also hosted readings by several national and international authors, most recognizable to me was Paul Auster (who I missed by one day!).
Surrounded by gorgeous mountains, it's impossible to have a bad view when walking through town. 
On my last day, I sat in this lovely park (that now has free wi-fi), drank freshly squeezed orange juice, and watched this dance class. 
Back in Mexico City (it's impossible to get between San Miguel and Oaxaca without a stopover in the DF), I enjoyed this hazy view from my hotel room. 
10 November 2008
Dolores Hidalgo
Last Friday, visiting friends and I went to the nearby town of Dolores Hidalgo. The central historic district features a large statue of Miguel Hidalgo in front of the Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores, where in 1810 his Grito de Dolores initiated Mexico's fight for independence.
La Cárcel, the town's Museo de la Independencia, houses several modern artistic interpretations of the violent struggle between Spanish and Mexican armies. In the mural below, the body of Mexico (left) is composed of thousands of small soldiers gruesomely fighting a Spanish knight.
In this painting, the woman (Mexico) breaks free from the shackles of the knight (Spain) and transitions from a prisoner, to an educated and orderly being, and finally ascends into greatness by morphing into an eagle.
The town is also famous for its extensive assortment of homemade ice creams and sorbets. Flavors range from traditional vanilla, chocolate and strawberry to the more unusual corn, avocado, whiskey, cheese, fried cheese, and (personal favorite) tequila with pineapple and mango. It's great fun to sample what concoctions the vendors come up with each day.
Back in San Miguel that night, I snapped this shot of our own Parroquia under the moonlight.
La Cárcel, the town's Museo de la Independencia, houses several modern artistic interpretations of the violent struggle between Spanish and Mexican armies. In the mural below, the body of Mexico (left) is composed of thousands of small soldiers gruesomely fighting a Spanish knight.
In this painting, the woman (Mexico) breaks free from the shackles of the knight (Spain) and transitions from a prisoner, to an educated and orderly being, and finally ascends into greatness by morphing into an eagle.
The town is also famous for its extensive assortment of homemade ice creams and sorbets. Flavors range from traditional vanilla, chocolate and strawberry to the more unusual corn, avocado, whiskey, cheese, fried cheese, and (personal favorite) tequila with pineapple and mango. It's great fun to sample what concoctions the vendors come up with each day.Back in San Miguel that night, I snapped this shot of our own Parroquia under the moonlight.
03 November 2008
El Día de los Muertos
November is here, and with it marks one of the most famous Mexican holidays - El Día de los Muertos (or Day of the Dead). Families spend the weekend remembering their lost loved ones and inviting their spirits to come back and hear their prayers. They build personal altars to both celebrate and entice the spirits to return.
The markets sell homemade sugar decorations (including skulls, caskets, sheep, fruits, vegetables, toys, and catrinas), paper flags, candles, pan de muerto, and flowers to help create the individual altars.
Without any photos of lost loved ones, my little altar did not have much to work with, but it was fun to make one nonetheless.
Of all the altars around town, this one was my favorite. What spirit would not be enticed by such large bottles of tequila?
The crypts of all the old churches were also opened this weekend to allow people to pay their respects.
In addition to the Day of the Dead festivities, I also made my way over to the Instituto Allende (a language and culture school). I loved this mural depicting the effects of modernization on society.
And, while using the ladies room, came across this very well-drawn eye staring back at me from the stall door.
The markets sell homemade sugar decorations (including skulls, caskets, sheep, fruits, vegetables, toys, and catrinas), paper flags, candles, pan de muerto, and flowers to help create the individual altars.
Without any photos of lost loved ones, my little altar did not have much to work with, but it was fun to make one nonetheless.
Of all the altars around town, this one was my favorite. What spirit would not be enticed by such large bottles of tequila?
The crypts of all the old churches were also opened this weekend to allow people to pay their respects.
In addition to the Day of the Dead festivities, I also made my way over to the Instituto Allende (a language and culture school). I loved this mural depicting the effects of modernization on society.
And, while using the ladies room, came across this very well-drawn eye staring back at me from the stall door.
27 October 2008
Bosque de Chapultepec
Among my many happy adventures this week, I finally made my way to the Bosque de Chapultepec in Mexico City. I usually just wave at this enormous park on my way to the Anthropology Museum, but decided to spend a sunny day exploring the trails that wind around a scattering of lakes, museums, plazas, and food vendors. It's an amazing feeling to be in such a lush forest right in the heart of Mexico City. I was also pleasantly surprised to find the "Paseo de Quixote" located in the Southwest corner of the park. The trail begins with the statue I'm posting below and ends in a courtyard of smaller figurines depicting scenes from the book.
19 October 2008
Don Quixote and El Golpe
"You must consider what you are, seeking to know yourself, which is the most difficult task conceivable."
This week I finally finished Don Quixote. All 940 pages. The book could have been equally good at 340 pages, but overall I felt it was worth reading. The character and I have bonded - both of us living a life of blissful imagination. I found this little wooden figurine in the back of a local artisan store.
One of the small movie houses in town hosted a tribute to Paul Newman this week, showing a different classic film every day. While I was tempted to (re)watch "The Hustler" and "Hud" - both great movies, both showcasing the wonder that was Paul Newman - I ultimately opted for "The Sting." As some of you know, I've nicknamed one of my very best friends "El Golpe" and so went to see it in honor of him...and Paul Newman.
This week I finally finished Don Quixote. All 940 pages. The book could have been equally good at 340 pages, but overall I felt it was worth reading. The character and I have bonded - both of us living a life of blissful imagination. I found this little wooden figurine in the back of a local artisan store.
One of the small movie houses in town hosted a tribute to Paul Newman this week, showing a different classic film every day. While I was tempted to (re)watch "The Hustler" and "Hud" - both great movies, both showcasing the wonder that was Paul Newman - I ultimately opted for "The Sting." As some of you know, I've nicknamed one of my very best friends "El Golpe" and so went to see it in honor of him...and Paul Newman.
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