29 June 2008

Wrapping up the first week and starting the next...

The first week of classes is officially behind me, and although it was quite a whirlwind, I've already learned so much and have made an amazing new set of friends. Our classes so far have focused on Organic Coffee production, Mexican national identity, Student movements in the 1960s, La Lucha Libre, and the Oaxaca State Band. We were able to get out of the classroom a few times - formally to do a walking tour of the city and to watch a performance of the State Band, and informally to socialize during happy hours, dinners, and even an impromptu party at my house on Saturday night.

All of the fellows get along really well, and the professors continue to be fascinating (thank goodness!). In my neighborhood, I'm starting to become a regular at a few places and have made a few friends in restaurants and shops. I'm sure this will only increase (for the better) the longer I'm here.

This week is going to be our most intensive, a combination of all-day classes and a few field trips. But if it's anything like last week, it's going to be another incredible set of experiences. I look forward to sharing more with you soon!


Benito Juarez statue


Santo Domingo


Freshly painted Zapata artwork on a city wall


Monument recognizing all of the historians from Oaxaca


Carmen Alto


Celebrating one of the fellows' birthdays in the Zocalo (notice the Burger King crown)


The birthday festivities continued at my studio apartment later that evening

24 June 2008

Off and running...

The Oaxaca Summer Institute kicked off in high gear Sunday night with a welcome reception at the home of our directors. It was a great chance to meet the other fellows informally and get a general overview of the program. On Monday morning, we toured the Institute facilities and received more detailed information about our fellowships. We will have 2 or 3 seminars a day, each conducted by a historical scholar, and covering topics from organic coffee production, technological changes, and artistic traditions to nationalism, liberalism, and gender/sexuality. It's a great way to explore the many different facets of Mexican history, and is very inspiring for developing dissertation topics that push the envelope. The classes are bilingual, and so far I've been able to keep up with the speakers pretty well. However, my own Spanish speaking skills are still rusty - I'm hoping that will change after a few more days here.

Photos of the Institute

Outside of the Institute, I'm happily settling into my new neighborhood. There have been a few setbacks--rolling blackouts, mosquito bites that itch all night, taking three days and countless stores to find dish soap--but my apartment is great (I've added a few more photos to the previous blog) and it's wonderful to walk around and see the markets and local shops, to smell the heavenly scents coming from nearby bakeries and flower shops, to watch parents walking their kids to and from school, and to look off in the distance at some of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Finally, the last thing I'll mention for now is food. I was hoping to go "veg" while I was here, but every where I've been so far only offers things with chicken, pork, chorizo, or beef - no cheese only, no beans only, no veggies only. The good news is that the meaty food is wonderful and very inexpensive. For lunch today I had a pollo torta for 8 pesos (or $0.80). Last night, I ordered food para llevar (to go - I had to get back to "War and Peace") and for 35 pesos (or about $3.50), I got this incredible meal:

Spicy Pineapple Chicken, Rice, Vegetables, Tortillas, Chicken and Rice soup, Green Salsa, and two glasses of pineapple juice

However, as good as the food is, it's also nice to have a kitchen in my studio for days when I don't think my body can handle another Mexican dish. I've even got a little "American" corner of essentials:



At the supermercado today, I found olive oil and pasta! So exciting! Needless to say, the majority of foods available in the store are Mexican, so there will be entire rows of things like beans or (as seen below) hot peppers.



All in all, I'm just trying to absorb as much as possible both inside and outside the classroom. Thanks to everyone who sent me a note after my last post. I'm not sure that I'll be able to write a blog every day, but I'll definitely try for a few times a week. And I'll certainly keep replying to emails!

Wishing you happiness in whatever your own passions are!
Stephanie

21 June 2008

Bienvenidos a Oaxaca

During long travel days, my enthusiasm for arriving in a new city decreases with every hour. However, after arriving safely in Oaxaca and immediately plopping down for a nice long nap, I woke up this morning to discover that this lovely place is my new home.




Although the weather here is stormy today, I did get in a nice walk around the city. It's 17 blocks from my apartment to the Institute, but there are at least ten different ways to get there and most of them involve passing through the Zocalo. Since most of my classes won't start until 2 PM, it will be great motivation to make my way to school trying out different restaurants and cafes en route.


One of my fellow students will be standing on a corner of the Zocalo this evening in the hopes that some of us will come out and join him for a beer. I think I'm going to like it here!

17 June 2008

Andy and Sarah's wedding


I had the great pleasure of attending my friends' Andy and Sarah's wedding in San Francisco this week. It was a fantastic chance to catch up with a wonderful circle of friends before heading south and (even more importantly) to help celebrate the marriage of this amazing couple. Phoenix is next - a quick trip home to visit with the folks - then Oaxaca at last! :)




Fog rolling across Sausalito



Andy and Sarah



Nicole, Christine, Stephanie, and Jacey
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06 June 2008

Costa Rica and Nicaragua

Prior to leaving for Oaxaca, my family and I took a trip to Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Here are the highlights:


The view from our hotel room

Toasting Dad on his birthday

Bats

Río Tempisque

Mesoamerican Statue

Fantastic Organic Coffee Co-op





Overview of Lake Nicaragua

Masaya Volcano





Back in Costa Rica, our last family dinner of the trip (Mom, Lisa, Steph, Dad)

Mom and Dad

Lisa and Stephanie