I love constantly being surprised by what I find in my walks through the city. Paying attention to the tile plaques on the facades of old buildings is my new favorite game. The house below was the "Casa de Inquisitor" during the 1780s Spanish Inquisition.
Over the weekend, I also came across a small gallery with a exhibit entitled, "El Corazón de Frida" or "The Heart of Frida." In two small rooms in the back of the space, the owners have a collection of letters written by Frida Kahlo, addressed to herself, reflecting on her tumultuous relationship with Diego Rivera.
The letters are deeply moving and unabashedly intimate. Here is one example, written while they were divorced (they later remarried). I'm typing it in both languages because it's just so beautiful in Spanish:Llamas de Pasión
Una tarde de verano cerre las ventanas de la casa para que nos amaramos, cuanto amor y pasión encerro la casa aquella tarde, recuerdo que me envolvió tu pasion desmedida, las llamas del amor fueron inmensasa, tan grandes fueron que salieron de la recamara e incendiaron la cocina, la sala, el comedor, el estudio, el jardín, la calle y por último todo Coyoacán. Estaba encendida por la fuerza del amor que tu me ofreciste. Hoy las cortinas están cerradas para no dejar salir el luto e invadir todo con la pena que hoy se vive aquí.
Flames of Passion
One summer afternoon I closed the windows of the house so we could love each other, so much love and passion got trapped in the house that afternoon. I remember how your immeasurable passion enfolded me, the flames of our love were immense, so intense that they flew out of the bedroom and set the kitchen, the living room, the dining room, the studio, the garden, the street, and ultimately all of Coyoacán on fire. I was ignited by the strength of the love you offered me. Today the curtains are kept shut to prevent everything from being invaded by the pain and the grief that lingers here today.
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